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Beetle not pulling away

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Post  Dubpete Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:06 pm

Ive manage to get beetle on the road for grill and chill.
Problem I have is when I go to pull away there is no power it just kinda dies.
I have to kind of keep revving then pull away.
It's drive able but didn't know if anyone knows what it could be so it makes pulling away at junctions easier.
Cheers
See you all friday
Dubpete
Dubpete

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Post  ben Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:49 pm

Ah man...
i have had this problem a few times...
Trouble is it could be a number of things.
I had an air leak in the inlet manifold once, squirted some silicon around the seals (bit of a bodge but it worked!).
It is very very likely to be a carb issue. Have you tried tuning it?

I remember another time actually, there is a little tiny disc on the front of the carb, that had popped off so was letting air in too, might be worth seeing if that is air tight.

Have you got a stock air filter on it too?? oil bath is probably best, but the late stock ones work well too.

You might find it gets better when it gets warm, but it might also get worse.

Might be worth checking in the Haynes manual (in the FAQ section or something), or googling it... there might be a few other things it could be that i dont know about.

Good luck dude!
ben
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Post  Rob Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:02 pm

As Ben says it could a multitude of issues. Have you driven it fully warmed up and is it better or worse hot?

Add dizzy/timing to the list. Lack of advance possibly caused by stuck timing weights will also cause a flat spot.
Rob
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Post  George&Charlie Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:38 pm

Had this problem numerous times before too.

If you build the revs up slowly does it run ok? Does the flat spot happen when you put your foot hard on the accelerator?

It's definitely worth checking for a vacuum leak first as it will only take 5 minutes. Don't use WD40 as a lot of people suggest, I'd use carb cleaner or starter spray.

In my experience, WD40 just isn't flammable enough and can give you the impression that you don't have a leak, when you actually do!!! I tried checking for leaks using it and found nothing. After replacing nearly every part of the ignition system and rebuilding sh*t loads of carbs. I rechecked for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner and found that one of the manifold boots was leaking like a b*tch.

As Rob suggested, if it's not a vacuum leak then I'd check the timing. Have you changed any parts of the ignition system or adjusted the carb recently?
George&Charlie
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Post  George&Charlie Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:53 pm

Just had another thought. Didn't you replace part of fuel lines / tank recently?

Might be worth having a look at your fuel filter/s and making sure they're not blocked or dirty too.
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Post  Dubpete Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:26 am

Yes doesnt do it if you build revs up dead slowly. When warm it's a little better. Il have a little look and check carb. May need a tune worst comes to worse il just leave it untill after weekend. I only have wd40 ATM il try the silicone idea.
First il check for air leaks.
And yes it has the oil bath filter oil may have spilled out though but would that effect it?
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Post  paul_f Sat Sep 22, 2012 1:28 am

SOunds like accelerator pump not working properly to me

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